Heidi ! Or anyone that has ideas

You could try felaway (sp?) it's a calming pheromone spray , though it doesn't always work and it's expensive.
In my opinion cats who spray (who are de-sexed) are unlikely to stop until you remove the threat or stress- which is usually impossible (other cats ect)
Some breeds are more prone to it than others (due to higher stress levels) I have found.
There are also drugs you could ask your vet about
Good luck.

Feliway is sometimes hit/miss and as a product is a bit expensive and probably not something I would recommend for very large homes. Composure Liquid and Rescue Remedy are two products that many feral cat handlers use to help lower the stress/tension levels of the animals they are working with.

Generally, you would need to determine *why* they are marking; UTI? Changes in the home? Battles for dominance?

[i]I am surprised with my multi-cat home that I do not have marking issues. I attribute that to me being home all day with them and I make sure they know that *I* am The Biggest, Baddest Mo-Fo and if Mamma ain't happy ... then ain't NOBODY happy. A sharp "No!" or "Aaahnnnt!" usually does the trick. If not, and I gotta stomp over to them ... someone is going to be sorry if they don't stop what they're doing and I reach them.
Now, it seems like I am abusive but I am not. My behavior is a carefully crafted illusion that I am happy to let them believe. If they ever learned I was a marshmallow-moosh, they'd walk all over me and run wild.[/i]

Can you tell me more about them? Ages? Relationship to each other? (related or not) How they behave together and when separate?
Best of luck with your kitties,
h =^..^=

I'm assuming it's to establish dominance. Kharma (female) was a kitten of a feral mom and fairly feral when we got her. She is still super stand-offish. We had another cat, Lopez, when we got her and he was older. He eventually accepted her and they were great buddies for many years. Lopez died about 2.5 years ago. So I got a young cat, Buster, from the impound. Friendly as could be, unfixed, but I took him straight to the vet where they fixed him before he even came home. Kharma is fixed too btw. Since we got him, she and he go round and round - not fighting - but not accepting each other. They hiss and spat, but mainly, Kharma began marking a rug in the bathroom. That was it for a long time. Only the rug in the bathroom (so I thought). I ditched having a rug, and she started downstairs which took me a very very long time to find as it was behind the couch, under a bench by the back door, etc (plus we had a chihuahua who took all the blame for all of it).... Then she (Kharma) was busted doing it on my rug in the kitchen - NEW rug. And Buster caught marking all over the place in the yard that she went. So I assume they are both doing it and my downstairs carpet? I'm ripping it out and tiling it.

Well .... here's a couple things.

For some reason, I assume it is an odor, some cats will pee on rugs with rubber backing. I have one. We cannot leave the bathroom doors open or he will pee on them. Hubby and I are good about it, guests ... not so much and we sort of have to follow behind them and close the door, or if they are staying longer than a quick visit, we explain about the bathroom pee-cat. I could not have runner rugs in my kitchen and I *really* miss having those to stand on when I cook or do dishes.
Darn that BooBoo kitty! *[i]shakes fist at sky[/i]*

Also, you really cannot rule out a UTI issue for Kharma. The only way to know for sure is with a urinalysis to specifically check for infection, inflamation or crystals. If Buster is marking outside and not in the home, that is great! If you can get Kharma vet-checked for UTI and treated, she should return to using a litterbox and I think that would solve the inappropriate peeing.

If it is behavioral, there are several other things you can check. Rather than type it all out, I'll copy/paste from a post at a feline forum...

Copy/Paste ...check out the "After vet visit" part for ideas...

I wrote this some time ago as a response for someone else but the information remains relevant and lately I seem to be getting a LOT of use out of it. First get a UTI exam/sample for diagnosis and proceed from there with pursuing any behavioral or environment issues, but the UTI *must* be ruled out FIRST. [i]If your cat(s) is/are male, just replace she/her with he/him.[/i]
I apologize if this sounds blunt, it isn’t meant to be, it is simply the most expedient way for me to share all of the information you need to be informed.
=^..^=

[color=#000040][u]Inapropriate Urination / UTI[/u]
[b]The NUMBER ONE REASON CATS PEE INAPPROPRIATELY = Urinary Tract Inflamation. (UTI)[/b]
Diagnosis is with a vet checking a urine sample. There is no other way to diagnose this medical problem. Depending on diagnosis ([i]infection, inflamation, crystals[/i]) treatment can include antibiotics, anti-inflamatories and/or a diet change to help get more moisture into their elimination systems.

Cats are naturally neat and tidy animals.
They *know* what a litterbox is for.
[u]If a cat is *not* using their litterbox, they are trying to *tell you something* and you need to listen[/u].

AFTER a veterinary visit and UTI has been eliminated as a problem, then you can move on to examining other areas:
Has the home been stressful for the cat? [i]...cats can develop UTIs due to stress...[/i]
Does the cat like the litterbox? [i]...open-tray, hooded, deep enough litter, large enough box...[/i]
Does the cat like the location of the litterbox? [i]...is it in a quiet area, low traffic and no sudden noises...[/i]
Does the cat like the litter used? [i]...some cats prefer different litters...[/i]
Does the cat approve of how clean the litterbox is kept for it? [i]...many cats will refuse to use 'dirty', and especially *smelly* litterboxes...[/i]
Are the litterboxes arranged in such a manner as they cannot become a trap? ... [i]some multi cat households can have a problem with another cat either guarding the LBs or waiting to ambush a cat exiting a LB in an effort to play[/i]

Cats WANT to use a litterbox to hide their waste. If they are not, it is because there is some sort of problem and [u]avoiding the litterbox is The Only Way for the cat to tell you It Is Having A Problem[/u]. If you and your family are annoyed at this behavior, imagine how *frustrating* and *painful* this is for your cat, who is trying to tell you in every way she has available to her: She Is Having A Problem...UTI's are painful and the kitty tries to find places to pee where maybe it *won't* be painful, like soft piles of clothes, bedding and rugs. When the pain *still* isn't going away by peeing on soft things, they start to pee on 'smooth' things like floors, tables, sinks, tubs, stoves and countertops. IMO, when a cat reaches the point of peeing on your countertops AND/OR peeing *[i]right in front of you while looking you in the eyes[/i]* ... please don't get upset, the kitty is simply trying to tell you she has something wrong with her.

After medical treatment, diet can play a large role in helping to keep UTI's at bay; more moisture, as in a wet food or RAW diet. Even a better quality dry food and not feeding "McKittyCrack" ([i]which is what I call grocery-store available catfoods[/i]) can help the kitty stay healthy. There are plenty of topics in the Health/Nutrition Forums to help you find a good catfood and/or diet for your kitty during and after treatment.

Good luck, we really *want* you to be able to help your kitty. Please let us know how things go...the information you share could help other people in similar situations, too.
heidi =^..^=[/color]

I'll take her in!!! That would - I know it sounds bad but - be awesome if that was it!!! Because it's not just on the rugs with rubber backs. It's even on the trim (yes on the wall) on my wood floor dining room. It's disgusting. There is one particular drape she likes to destroy/hide behind in the dining room. It's there too. Bleck.

Ugh! Do you have any enzymatic cleaners? I like to use Nature's Miracle, Odo-Ban or Simple Solutions. You have to fully SATURATE and SOAK the pee'd on area. You must make sure the liquid has reached every place the urine reached. The product has to remain on the area long enough for the enzymes to have time to break down the odor causing bacteria so it cannot emit its' odor. Sometimes more applications are needed if the product has air-dried before the enzymes were able to neutralize all of the odor.
Carp! I had found an awesome 20sec video that explained how enzymes worked and I cannot find it. Darnit.

[quote="Heidi"]Ugh! Do you have any enzymatic cleaners? I like to use Nature's Miracle, Odo-Ban or Simple Solutions. You have to fully SATURATE and SOAK the pee'd on area. You must make sure the liquid has reached every place the urine reached. The product has to remain on the area long enough for the enzymes to have time to break down the odor causing bacteria so it cannot emit its' odor. Sometimes more applications are needed if the product has air-dried before the enzymes were able to neutralize all of the odor.
Carp! I had found an awesome 20sec video that explained how enzymes worked and I cannot find it. Darnit.[/quote]

Ya, I just threw the rugs away, but the $60 one in the kitchen. Everything else is pretty cleanable and doesn't stink, but I'll try the enzyme stuff on the kitchen one - I haven't had to since the chihuahua died.